This .44 Special was restored by Turnbull Restorations. It was a fine gun and shot beautifully. It came with a .44-40 cylinder as well. However, the barrel of this gun was not especially accurate firing that ammo, likely due to the disparity in the bore and the bullet diameters, so it shot better with bullets sized at .429 inch.
We discuss how to avoid getting ripped off in today’s Colt Single Action Army collector market.
As of this writing, Colt Single Action Army revolvers have never been more valuable. Browsing Cabela’s online Gun Library, GunBroker, ArmsList and more, prices range from the tolerable to ridiculous—some in the ballpark of $25,000.
As you can imagine, this market is littered with fraud, and many sellers are complicit, knowingly or not. In many cases, you can accurately assess your skill as a Colt collector by the ones you don’t buy.
I’ve collected, bought and sold military surplus rifles for most of my life. This was fostered by their comparatively low prices during my youth; Mosin rifles could be had for as low as $65, and a case of 440 rounds, in a sealed tin, came in at a whopping $40.
I fondly recall spending virtually all my money in late high school trying to collect various stamps and markings: Each gun show was like an archaeological dig and I was a fossil hunter.
Markings on a genuine Colt. Note the pony and the small markings on the front of the trigger guard. That tiny triangle with a “VP” in it stands for “Verified Proof” and is an acceptance stamp that the gun has met Colt’s standards for sale to a customer. This is a commonly forged marking on non-Colt parts.
Those days are now long gone, and the surplus market has since dried up in many ways. The average Mosin is now about as expensive as the next gun, with most military surplus rifles going for $500 to $1,000, depending on country of origin and condition. What has since happened to the surplus market is nothing short of criminal.
The same thing has occurred in the Colt market as well, but with substantially greater financial risk.
What Is ‘Value?’
The main issue is what constitutes value. In the surplus market, things tend to level out given the supply of guns that can be readily forged or rebuilt for profit.
It’s substantially harder to rip off someone with a Swiss K31 than it is with a 1903 Springfield, simply because there aren’t hundreds of thousands of spare parts floating around to make “new” surplus guns.
I regularly encounter “restored” M1903 and M1 Garand rifles that are anything but; they sport new barrels, stocks and, for the most part, are just an original action. For a parts gun 1903, $1,200 is fully double what you should be paying, considering an original example goes for that much. A genuine receiver doesn’t make a genuine gun.
Unfortunately, the same is happening in the Colt market, where many newly made replicas are being produced, and a large number of these guns can share parts with the originals.
The markings on a great replica, like the Standard Manufacturing Single Action Revolver, differ from those of a genuine Colt. The lettering, size and orientation all differ from an original.
So, why would someone do this? The average Gen 2 Colt is going for $3,000 to $5,000 these days. Several of my collector and historian friends speculate that a full 50 percent or more of the Colt Single Action Army market consists of guns containing non-Colt parts.
Faking Colts is an issue not just because of the insane values these guns hold, but because fakes are increasingly hard to spot—especially if they use original Colt parts in their deception. I’ve seen “genuine” Colts with modern CIP markings on their parts, likely take-offs from another import.
Markings on individual parts and grips will also vary depending on origin. The Colt (black grips) bears no butt markings, but that’s not to say it’s a copy if it has these markings. Various Colts over the years to have serialized individual parts, and many of these are commonly force-matched to increase value as an “all matching” gun.
Likewise, I’ve seen stamps faked—only original Colts have the rampant pony stamped on them. The placement of these stamps can be convincing, and if you have doubts, ask a collector or local expert to come take a look at the shop before you buy.
As you can see in the photos, even Colt stamping from two brand-new guns looks very different, thus compounding the problem by allowing more “fudge” on forgeries.
I once almost spent $2,500 on a beautiful early Colt, only to find that the only actual Colt part was the frame itself. The rest of the parts were reproductions or “upgrades.”
While the gun was beautiful and chambered in .44 Special, I discovered that it started life as a .38-40 and was made in about 1895. This was concerning because Colt didn’t start endorsing the use of smokeless powder in their guns until a half-decade later.
I wouldn’t have found this out unless I had researched the serial number first. Even then, the seller wouldn’t back down, saying it was worth the price—but, in reality, he was selling a frame dressed up in take-offs or aftermarket parts.
That gun ended up selling for $3,000 a few weeks later. I found out from the store manager, himself insisting that I had lost out on a deal. I was floored because I knew that gun only sold because of the Colt markings. This is what I mean about sellers being complicit in this scam. I’d have paid $500 for the frame, not $3,000, and I’d have had it sent out to be faithfully restored in the original caliber using original parts.
How confident are you in the strength of your SAA? Caliber conversions are relatively common; this matters, as you don’t want to blow up your gun. Some of these .44 Special loads are only suitable for modern smokeless frames—it’s of critical importance to date your frame as a result.
This begs the question: What number of original parts must be in the gun to make it original in a sale context? I believe that the only truly valuable Colt is one that you buy yourself from the factory and have sent directly to you.
My two single actions in this article were sent to me directly by Colt, and I know that they’re truly original. Beyond that, I’d only own restorations from known and trusted sources, such as Turnbull Restorations.
The value of any gun is subjective, and in the above anecdote with the frame, I’d have paid for the single valuable part and then ditched the rest. Would the gun fire? Sure.
Would it be a fine companion for the trail and the range? Undoubtedly. However, by my considerations, it was not a Colt in the truest sense. I’d have happily paid for the frame at a realistic price, but consider this: The buyer essentially dished out $2,500 in parts of unknown origin, thinking he had a real deal. His value on that gun was what he paid; my value was different.
Are the documented $25,000 to $35,000 Colts at auction worth that much? Well, they’re selling for that much … and that is all I can say about that.
Restoration Or Ruination
Because the bulk of the Colt SAA line was produced around the turn of the 20th century, there are many guns out there that are completely original but in poor condition. I’ve found that, over time, many of these guns are still great shooters and have lots of life left; however, their cosmetics are lackluster.
One of the most accurate Colts I ever shot and owned was a 7½-inch Gen 3 from about 1980 in .45 Colt. It looked like it was made in 1880. I could tell it wasn’t a gun that enjoyed a nice comfy life in the safe; it had lost most of its finish and had a notable drag line on the cylinder. Nevertheless, it shot point-of-aim with factory Black Hills cowboy loads and did so with astonishing accuracy.
Cast loads, like this .44 Special (left) and .45 Colt (right), are great in most all SAA revolvers, but only genuine Colt revolvers made after 1956 should be used with anything other than middle-of-the-road loads. The modern Colt SAA is strong and can be used with maximum standard pressure loads (but not Ruger-only loads, they’re much higher pressure). Replicas, imports and first-gens (1873 to 1941) should really only be used with “cowboy” pressure loads, as the steel quality can be dubious either by age or unknown manufacturing practices.
At the same time, I ended up owning a truly beautiful .44 Special that had been fully restored by Turnbull. The gun was a gem and had an accompanying .44-40 cylinder with it.
I contacted Colt on this gun, as well as Turnbull, and it was verified to have been made at the former and restored by the latter. I wanted my 7½-inch model to get restored after seeing how nice the finish was on the .44 Special, but I never went through with it and eventually sold both guns for a good sum to some area collectors.
I ended up selling the 7½-inch gun for almost double what I sold the .44 Special for, even though the .44 was a much prettier gun and was, by all accounts, original aside from the finish.
What happened was that even though the .45 was beat up, it was fully original and still had a great deal of the bluing on the cylinder and low barrel areas. Honest wear is a badge of honor, and neither shooting this gun nor putting it in leather managed to decrease the value.
So why would such a sad-looking gun out-price a beautiful one? Colt collectors want absolute authenticity and, while Turnbull does what’s arguably the best case-hardening in the world for these handguns, it’s not truly the same as an original Colt’s … except when it is. Turnbull has, in fact, worked with Colt directly on their case hardening, much like how Uberti and other Italian companies worked with Colt to make their C series “Re-issued” cap-and-ball revolvers in the 1970s.
So, are they really Uberti guns if they’re finished at Colt, or are they true Colts?
If you’re confused now, I don’t blame you. It doesn’t seem right that sending your gun to a place that has literally contracted with Colt to provide this exact type of finish is somehow akin to intentionally ruining your gun’s value.
However, if you ask any discerning collector if they’d rather have a refinished gun or a worn one in original condition, nearly all will take the latter. I think that this sentiment comes from a place of respectful nostalgia and an earned wariness of fraudsters looking to blend in their work under a pretty facade.
Risk Management
Replacing parts with period-correct originals can be done. There’s a fine line between making honest repairs and doing a complete rebuild, and I believe that line lies solely in the intention of the individual. If you’re a Colt owner and decide to replace a worn slot screw with a new one, I don’t think that you’re deceiving anyone.
What you need to spot is the sometimes-hidden angles that scalpers use … and turn it against them. A very simple method I’ve used is to call some refinishing houses and see if a gun came through them. It might take a while, but most of these places run their business with an FFL and will keep a log of the serial number as a matter of legal requirement.
This is a huge advantage, as some of these guns are selling for $5,000 or more, in 95 to 100 percent condition. You want to make sure you’re not investing in something that was screwed together and sent out for a fancy paint job.
Another method of utilizing the serial number is to contact Colt’s Archive Services to receive a letter from the company proving the authenticity of your gun. It’ll show the type of gun, finish, barrel length and original chambering. This is a massive benefit to you as a buyer because it’ll immediately validate your purchase, or it’ll allow you to reassess your expense.
Committed Colt collectors will use the Archive Services to bolster their value; a lettered Colt usually will pick up about 10 percent in value depending on the model and era. Not only are you bolstering value, but you’re also immediately able to see if your gun was rebuilt or altered in barrel or caliber.
The barrel markings on the author’s new 5.5-inch SAA. Note the slightly raised areas around the lettering. This is correct but compare this to the lettering on the author’s new 4.75-inch SAA, which is clean and flat. These two guns shipped together brand new—a great example of the variety in marking styles seen on genuine Colts.
As a general rule, a Colt that’s confirmed rebuilt is almost never worth more than $1,500. My collecting sources tell me that the general base price for a mix-and-match gun made from Colt parts should not exceed $1,500, as this is the overall cost of the parts if they were to be separated and sold individually.
Also, $1,500 is near the MSRP of a brand-new Colt SAA, and, considering that fact, represent a fair price. And think of it this way: These mix-and-match guns fall into a nice category, because you can look for these mixed original guns knowing that you can get a deal on a good shooter without paying the authenticated price tag.
After more than 125 years, the old toggle-top Luger still exerts its pull on some of us.
Addiction takes many forms, and my current addiction is the Luger pistol. This classic handgun goes by several monikers, including P08 (Pistole 08 in German, referring to 1908, when the Imperial German Army formally adopted it), Parabellum (from Latin, “prepare for war”), and, less formally, ‘toggle-top’, a reference to its operating mechanism. However, Luger—named after its Austrian inventor, Georg Luger—is its most common designation.
In all its models and variations, the Luger pistol is arguably the most collected and sought-after handgun in the world. Its nearest competitor is likely the iconic Colt Single Action Army revolver. From the moment I first experienced the feel of a Luger in my hands, I wanted one. Fate being fickle, my dream of ownership wouldn’t be fulfilled for 57 years. That’s one long wait.
As this writer discovered, and as the author of “Valley of the Dolls”, Jacqueline Susann, somewhat notoriously put it, “once is not enough.” In short order, one long-wait Luger became three. Will it end there?
Addiction is not easily cured.
The mystique of the Luger and its addictive qualities are undeniable. A pioneering handgun design introduced in 1898, sleek and ergonomic, German precision, storied combat in two world wars and far beyond, a presence on the silver screen, and the pistol’s many iterations—more than a hundred variations and proofmark configurations over its more than 50-year history. It’s an impressive resume. Not surprisingly, Luger collectors span the globe. Time has only increased its popularity.
As one learns quickly when pursuing the P08, these attributes prove formidable obstacles for those who want to own at least one to shoot without going broke. The pistol’s appeal has driven prices to astronomical levels, with few guarantees of provenance, condition, or shootability. Buying one today isn’t just risky business; it’s often a substantial financial investment and a proverbial shot in the dark.
To understand Lugers, their history, and pricing, one must know their markings, proofmarks, and serial numbers. What’s on top of the receiver is a good starting point. Knowledgeable Luger devotees will recognize the markings on (left to right): 1970s-vintage Interarms Mauser Parabellum; Imperial-era 1918 Erfurt; and a Nazi-era 1939 Mauser.
The Long Journey
My Luger journey began in the fall of 1967 at a gun show in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. My father brought me along to experience the vast array of rifles, handguns, and shotguns on display and to share in his passion for firearms. These were unforgettable experiences for a 14-year-old boy just beginning to learn about guns.
As was his way, Dad took his time at these shows, stopping at almost every booth, chatting with proprietors and acquaintances encountered along the way. Less patient and more focused than my father, I went like a torpedo directly to the displays that sparked my interest.
That particular day, a man had several Lugers on his table, along with German military swords, daggers, Iron Crosses, and a couple of World War II Stalhelm helmets. I was familiar with the pistol from Dad’s Gun Digests, other firearms publications, television, comic books, and toy handguns.
The man in the booth saw something in me, and it wasn’t a potential buyer. He took a Luger out of his display case and carefully handed it to me. “What do you think of that, son?” he asked. I can’t remember my answer, but I’m sure he saw the amazement and pleasure in my eyes. I’ve never forgotten that experience, the feel of that pistol, or the desire to own one.
Like today, Lugers were in demand, expensive, and scarce in our city in 1967. Those for sale in firearms periodicals, at gun shows, and in retail stores often cost more than a new Smith & Wesson or Colt revolver. Dad owned a Luger once, a battered World War II battlefield pick-up that someone chromed over to conceal its disfigurement. With use, the chrome began to peel. Soon after, he swapped it for an old Colt New Service 455 Eley revolver.
Dream Diverted
Scarcity, high prices, my father’s bias, and the wide world of other handguns out there diverted my Luger dream for more than five decades. Yet, whenever a P08 appeared in a gun store or show, I had to have a look. By then, I began to realize that most of the Lugers for sale were well-used specimens, many with mismatched parts and severe corrosion, particularly in the bores. It didn’t take an expert to see that most of these P08s were in less-than-prime condition.
Over the years, Dad and I befriended numerous fellow shooters. When the subject of Lugers came up, it was seldom positive. Everyone groused about prices. Then there were complaints about jams and parts breaking. I never heard one owner say the broken part was replaced and the pistol restored to functionality. One of Dad’s coworkers had a smart 1941 BYF-marked Mauser P08 that he hinted might be available for trade, but Dad was unwilling to part with any of his treasures to consummate a deal.
Fast forward five decades. Dad passed away, and I was then 71 years old. The desire to own ol’ toggle-top still burned bright. If there was a time to fulfill the dream, it was now. Of course, prices had risen to astronomical-plus levels, and quality was even more suspect.
I must have examined over a hundred P08s over the past 57 years. Friends advised me to bite the bullet, buy a “shooter,” meaning a vintage, perhaps cosmetically imperfect, and/or perhaps-less-than-100-percent-original pistol, now priced over $1,000, and take my chances that it would function reliably. (Replacement parts and/or refinishing are not synonymous with a poorly functioning pistol. Many refinished Lugers or those containing replacement parts are fine shooters, giving their owners much pleasure.)
Luger ownership became reality with the author’s Interarms Mauser Parabellum 29/70. But the question at the time was: Would this be the author’s only PO8? As it turned out, it was only the beginning.
Finding Your Luger
When buying a Luger, particularly one to shoot, the novice has to know about models, variations, condition variables, suitability for the range, and how to price them reasonably.
Gun stores and shows are a starting point, but, as I discovered, to cover the field, one must venture online. Here, the risks climb. Without a physical examination, one must rely on photos from various angles and place less weight on the owner’s claims regarding originality and condition. It’s a daunting experience. One important consideration is determining the seller’s return conditions early on.
Luger genealogy is a fascinating subject in its own right. In summary, German-made P08s are generally categorized by three eras of production for military and civilian sales worldwide: The Imperial Era under Kaiser Wilhelm, from 1900 to the end of World War I in 1918; The Weimar Republic Era, from 1919 to the early 1930s; and the Nazi Era extending to the end of World War II in 1945.
Seven countries and various police services issued the Luger as their official service pistol, with numerous others using it on a limited or unofficial basis.
Over its approximate half-century production run, manufacturing of the time-consuming, expensive pistol passed among German companies Deutsche Waffen und Munitionsfabriken (DWM), the Royal Erfurt and Spandau Arsenals, Simson Company, Mauser G.m.b.H., and Heinrich Krieghoff & Son. Waffenfabrik Bern produced Swiss-made Parabellums for military and civilian use from around 1918 to approximately 1947.
The Luger story didn’t end there.
While German manufacturing ceased, pistols continued to be assembled for a while from captured parts inventories for sale as war souvenirs. The victorious French applied liberated Mauser production machinery to build a small number of P08s for their forces. Russian occupiers and their East German allies utilized captured pistols and those assembled from parts for police issuance and, in limited numbers, for export to other communist countries.
Parabellum parts had a life of their own. They were also sold and assembled into pistols in the United States and elsewhere. The U.S. seemingly couldn’t get enough Parabellums.
The author’s early 1970s Interarms Mauser Parabellum 9mm 29/70 shoots as good as it looks, as reflected by a typical group fired offhand at 25 yards. However, this performance is only achieved after its small sights and a challenging trigger are mastered.
Then, in the late 1960s, Mauser took on the Herculean task of recreating the Luger from almost scratch. It succeeded and produced pistols until about 1986, with inventories lasting until the 1990s. Several other manufacturers gave it a go, with varying degrees of design authenticity, including German 22 LR and 380 ACP versions from Erma Werke and the American-made Stoeger Arms Corporation’s 22 LR and Mitchel Arms stainless steel 9mm pistols. Still, they’re all long out of production. There’s little traction today in producing the Luger, except for a few custom, build-to-order makers, including one offering a 45 ACP Parabellum, whose sticker prices are beyond the financial means of most of us.
The Next Steps
Devotees of the Parabellum fall into three categories, with overlap: collectors, investors, and shooters. We pure shooters appear to be in the minority when competing for available pistols. As the aspiring Luger owner soon learns, opinions on what constitutes a shooting Luger are numerous and occasionally heated. Sometimes it’s a kerfuffle between interested parties regarding rarity, monetary value, and the joy of shooting a classic handgun. Understand that the Luger was built for military and police use, not to rest in a gun safe.
A free, must-visit resource for Parabellum aficionados is Lugerforums.com, an online website dedicated to P08 enthusiasts of all levels of knowledge. It’s a treasure trove of information, opinion, and conjecture par excellence. The forum’s helpful members will answer your questions and provide the information, advice, and encouragement you need on all matters, Luger and beyond.
To authenticate a particular Luger’s provenance, authenticity, and condition, you must have basic knowledge, access to accurate (often expensive) reference materials (Lugerforums helps here), and, in the end, disassemble the pistol to examine individual components, particularly the bore, frame, toggle mechanism, and part serial numbers. Heavily worn, corroded, or cracked parts are trouble. If permitted, a range session is the ultimate test for suitability as a shooter.
Like all semi-automatic pistols, the Luger’s reliability is influenced by its magazine and the ammunition used. Even an otherwise reliable-shooting Luger will malfunction with a worn or damaged magazine, a broken internal part, the wrong ammunition (overall cartridge length is a primary concern), or improper magazine loading. In my experience, most vintage Parabellums on the market are offered with non-original magazines. Not a problem; if needed, excellent replacement P08 mags are available from Mec-Gar USA, Inc.
Facing these obstacles, I took a different route. I recalled the aforementioned Interarms Mauser, an authentic rendition of the Swiss 1929 Luger, in 9mm Parabellum and 7.65 Luger chamberings, with 4- and 6-inch barrel options.
While equipped with a grip safety and a straight front gripstrap, compared with the standard German P08’s curved strap and lack of a grip safety on most models, the pistol was manufactured in Obendorf, Germany, not coincidentally the builder of most of Germany’s World War II-era Lugers.
While long out of production, an Internet search revealed that these pistols were still plentiful and affordable, and they enjoyed a good reputation in online reviews.
Success at Last
On the web, I located an unfired 9mm specimen with a 4-inch barrel, complete with its original box, extra magazine, loading tool, barrel brush, owner’s manual, and factory test target, priced less than many vintage P08s I encountered. Photos backed up its condition claims.
I took the plunge and endured a traumatic delivery process that lasted more than two weeks, due to the confluence of the Christmas mail rush and a massive backlog at the city postal warehouse it traveled through. Its package tracker wasn’t functional, further compounding my anxiety.
The Interarms Mauser Parabellum’s factory three-shot test target, in German, fired from the bench at 25 meters with Winchester 115-gr. FMJ ammunition. Here, the pistol’s intrinsic accuracy is apparent.
When the blessed delivery occurred, I couldn’t have been happier with the results. The Interarms Mauser 29/70, as the pistol is sometimes referred to, is all Luger. Take down is typical Luger; the parts are nearly identical (though not interchangeable, I’ve read) to those of older pistols, and the look and feel are 100-percent Parabellum, albeit the Swiss 1929 version.
Mauser clearly took great care and expense to authentically replicate the pistol using modern machinery, with help from original Swiss blueprints, parts drawings, work sheets, original production gauges, and surviving production jigs that, most unfortunately for Mauser, were incompatible with its 1960s manufacturing technology.
The fit and finish of the Mauser Parabellum are typical German—superb. The bluing on my 29/70 is dark and rich, and the straw colors on the trigger, takedown lever, ejector, magazine release button, and thumb safety are vibrant. An attractive American Eagle stamp rests atop the chamber.
Range sessions revealed performance that equaled the pistol’s appearance. True to its predecessors, the P29/70 features small fixed-V rear/pyramid front sights and a trigger that can best be described as challenging.
With the Luger’s complex trigger mechanism, my specimen offers virtually no take-up, an 8-lb. wall, followed by release with scant overtravel. The sights function OK with adequate light, but are useless in low light.
These impediments take some getting used to, but once you master them, you’re rewarded with target-pistol accuracy. Fired offhand at 25 yards, on a good day, my Mauser Parabellum groups in the black with surprising ease. This by a bifocaled septuagenarian with a touch of shake.
Lugers have a reputation for being finicky eaters. The three-shot, sub-1-inch factory test target included with my pistol was achieved with Winchester standard velocity 115-grain FMJ target and practice ammunition. Accordingly, that’s what I use in the P29/70, with complete reliability. I see no need to experiment with other loads.
The pistol’s magazine springs are powerful enough to ensure reliable feeding. Using the loading tool makes the process much easier. Still, thumb strength definitely comes in handy. Proper cartridge stacking in the magazine is critical for reliability.
The toggle mechanism requires strength to rack. Despite the pistol’s beauty, it’s built to shoot. Although my Luger sat unfired for approximately 52 years, there will be periodic range workouts. Its life as a safe queen is over.
Because of the Luger’s tight tolerances and intricate design, it must be kept reasonably clean and lubricated. Despite claims of fragility, a good number of Parabellums remained in active service for many years, reliably.
What is a Classic Luger?
While very well done, to many purists, the Interarms Mauser Parabellum 29/70 doesn’t qualify as a true classic Luger. As author Aaron Davis put it in The Luger Handbook, using an analogy of the classic 1964 Ford Mustang auto compared with today’s version, “…it’s a flattering likeness, but the original stands apart.”
I’m not sure I agree with that appraisal or if it really matters. Based on my experiences, the P29/70 is one fine Luger to own, shoot, and admire.
Now I had everything Luger I needed, but there were nagging urges. The thought of a World War II-vintage, military-issue P08 lurked restlessly in my mind, despite more than half a century of effort and countless disappointments in pursuit of one. More than ever, Luger hunting is fraught with sky-high prices, a limited supply of suitable pistols, questionable quality, and the occasional intentional misrepresentation. On this journey, one ventures forward at one’s own risk.
A Pleasant Surprise
Then the unexpected occurred. As I struggled with Parabellum addiction, there was a complete relapse. I learned of a relative who had a World War II bringback P08, with its issue holster, that his father had liberated from a German officer during the Battle of the Bulge. The price was reasonable, and I bought it post haste.
This WWII capture turned out to be a 1918 Erfurt Imperial pistol, all original and matching except for one period wood-base magazine and one 1930s aluminum-base version.
The Luger was in excellent condition throughout, as was its brown, 1918-dated Lestelmann of Strassburg holster. Loaded in the spare magazine and fit into the holster were five rounds of Czech 1947 9mm ball ammunition—no story on how they got there.
The author’s Imperial-era 1918 Erfurt Luger came with its like-dated issue holster. Because of the P08’s sensitivity to dirt and debris, a full-cover holster was required for reliable field service. If only this old WWII battle pistol could talk!
While not my hoped-for World War II-vintage Nazi-era pistol, it’s a beauty. If only old battle pistols could talk. Is it a World War I issue that returned home with its user, then handed over to a son for the new war, or had it been resting in a German arsenal after hostilities ceased, awaiting reissue to Hitler’s Wehrmacht?
After disassembly and a thorough inspection, cleaning, and oiling, the Luger passed its initial range session with flying colors, despite those small sights and an extra-challenging trigger. Based on my relative’s recollection, the pistol hadn’t been fired in over 70 years. I ran a box of Winchester standard-velocity 115-gr. FMJ through it with 100-percent reliability. Accuracy offhand at 25 yards was similar to its 1970s counterpart—outstanding.
Now I was two Lugers rich. Common sense said I had everything needed for a lifetime of Parabellum pleasure. Such was not the case.
Another Luger Appears
Somehow, a collector-grade 1939 Mauser S/42 P08 was offered to me at a collector-grade price. According to its seller, the pistol I’d been seeking for over half a century was in excellent condition, with all matching serial numbers, except for the magazine and grips.
Sticker shock held me back for precisely 24 hours, but remember, I was now an addict. I took a deep breath and dropped the cashier’s check in the mailbox.
Ewert’s long-sought-after Nazi-era 1939 Mauser Parabellum. Approximately 57 years later, fate delivered it into his hands. When dreaming, sometimes one must play the long game.
When the Luger arrived, it was everything I’d hoped for and more. This pistol was indeed in prime condition throughout, completely reliable at the range and, thanks to a superb trigger pull (for a Luger), as accurate as any target handgun I’d fired. I asked myself: “Is there anything more in life?”
Not yet, but…
I’ve attempted to rank my trio of Parabellums based on looks, accuracy, and historical significance. I can’t. Each is special in its own right, attractive, accurate beyond my capabilities, and as much pleasure to hold and admire as to shoot. There is no favorite. They all provide extraordinary shooting pleasure.
So, here’s where my Luger addiction stands today: I own three fine Parabellums. Perhaps addiction has finally been sated. Perhaps not. An acquaintance recently showed me a handsome 1920s Weimar-era DWM PO8 in 7.65 caliber, with its Safe and Fire safety designations in English. Is it very nice? Yes. Do I need it? No. Is that the end of the story?
I think not.
As the author discovered, Lugers can be addictive, but also lots of fun to shoot. Examples include: (left to right) 1970s-vintage Interarms Mauser Parabellum; 1918-dated Erfurt and its issue holster, captured during the Second World War; and a 1939 Mauser S/42 model, all in 9mm. While the Luger action is strong and the workmanship is top rate, given its small parts and age, it is wise to limit ammunition to standard-pressure, standard-length loads. Once the pistol’s marginal sights and challenging trigger are mastered, superb accuracy awaits. That loading tool in the lower left is a real pain reliever.
Bibliography
Frank C. Barnes, Cartridges Of The World, Gun Digest Media, 5600 W. Grande Market Drive, Appleton, Wisconsin 54913
Davis, Aarron, The Luger Handbook, Krause Publications, 700 E. State Street, Iola, Wi 54990
Dixon, Jim, “The Return Of The Krieghoff Luger,” Gun Digest 2011, Krause Publications, 700 E. State Street, Iola, Wi 54990
Ezell, Edward, Handguns Of The World, Barnes & Noble Books, New York- New York
Will Fowler, Anthony North, Charles Stronge, And Patrick Sweeney, The Complete World Encyclopedia Of Guns, Hermes House, 88-89 Blackfriars Road, London, England
Hogg, Ian V., The New Illustrated Encyclopedia Of Firearms, Wellfleet Press, 110 Enterprise Avenue, Secaucus, New Jersey, 07094
Roberts, Joseph B. Jr., Firearms Assembly, The Nra Guide To Pistols And Revolvers, National Rifle Association Of America, 11250 Waples Mill Road, Fairfax, Virginia 22030
Stevenson, Jan, “The Parabellum Story,” July 1969 Gunfacts Magazine, Hazard Publications. Available On The Internet At
Thompson, Leroy, The Swiss Luger, Military Surplus Collector’s Guide 2014, Harris Publications, Inc., 1115 Broadway, Nyc, New York 10010
The “out-of-print” .256 Winchester is an excellent performer in John’s T/C Contender.
In the early 1960s there was a great deal of interest in long-range, small-bore handgun cartridges. Remington introduced the radical (at the time) XP-100 bolt gun chambered in .221 Fireball. Smith & Wesson contributed the ill-fated .22 Jet, and Marlin brought out a modernized lever-action rifle chambered in .256 Winchester Magnum.
Both of the latter two cartridges were based on the .357 Magnum necked down. The .256 was at least prototyped by Colt — in 1963 they produced a brochure showing four .256 sixguns — a Colt SAA, a Buntline Special and a Python, all priced at $125 each, plus their $89.95 .357 Magnum. I have no idea how many, if any, were actually produced and sold as they simply couldn’t get it to work right; case setback with the cartridge case jamming the cylinder was the problem.
Marlin’s Model 57 .256 Levermatic was a modernized, box-magazine short-throw levergun.
Ruger Hawkeye, Marlin Levermatic
Ruger made the .256 work in their single-shot Hawkeye “revolver.” Instead of a cylinder, Ruger went with a single-shot breechblock fitted to a Blackhawk frame. The cartridge is a good one, however, the Marlin Model 57 Levermatic did not go over well perhaps because it was too modern-looking a departure from the traditional Marlin levergun. The Levermatic was hammerless and designed with a short action and very short lever throw which takes some getting used to for those of us raised on standard (and far smoother) Marlins and Winchesters.
Although the operation of the action is nothing to get excited about, the Levermatic shoots quite well with the .256 — a modernized version of the old .25-20. It was made to be scoped and gives me excellent results for three shots at 50 yards using the Speer 75-gr. JFN over 14 grains of IMR 4227 for just under 2,300 fps and a group of 5/8″. The Hornady 60-gr. JSP over one more grain of the same powder gives the same muzzle velocity and the same accuracy.John’s preferred powder? Alliant 2400.
John’s Contender Concoctions
Thompson/Center also chambered their Contender in .256. Mine has a 10″ bull barrel and is topped with a Burris 4X LER, my scope of choice. I do not know of anyone offering .256 Winchester brass today, however, I’ve always tried to keep a good supply of all pistol brass on hand and have often purchased brass found at reasonable prices long before I ever had any gun to accept it.
Since the .256 Winchester is based on the .357 Magnum case, I surmise you could make brass from the latter, but I’m guessing cases made thusly would need to be inside necked reamed. Fortunately, I have enough brass so this should never be a problem. Dies are available from RCBS and with the .256 being a bottlenecked case, only a full-length sizing and seating die are required.
My powders of choice for the .256 are the same two I use for most handgun loads — Alliant 2400 and IMR 4227. Hornady, Sierra and Speer all offer .25 caliber bullets in the proper weight range (60-75 grains). Accuracy is excellent with all loads I have used with three shots at 45 yards. They all average under — well under — 1″. Factory loads from Winchester use a 60-gr. JHP that clocks out just under 2,500 fps from the 10″ Contender barrel and places its shots in 7/8″.
My favorite loads include the Hornady 60-gr. JFP over 14.0 grains of 2400 for 2,440 fps. One grain more gives me just over 2,500 fps with both loads grouping 5/8″ for three shots. The most accurate load I’ve found is the Speer 75-gr. FP over 14.0 grains of 2400 (3/8″ at 2,250 fps).John’s favorite bullets for the .256 Winchester are the Hornady 60-gr.
FP, Speer 75-gr. FPFN and Sierra 75-gr. JHP.
Bottleneck golden oldies: The .256 Winchester (right) is a modernized version of the .25-20.
Missed Opportunities
The plan behind the .256 Winchester was to come up with a 2,500 fps small-bore sixgun load. It was an excellent idea. It’s unfortunate the engineers on the project did not do all the homework necessary to make this cartridge work in a revolver chamber. My friends Gary Reeder and J.D. Jones learned how to make bottlenecked cartridges work in sixguns, so you have to wonder why the original engineers couldn’t figure it out.
The Contender-chambered .256 Winchester is an excellent choice for small game and varmints as is the Marlin Levermatic (which is certainly more powerful than my old Marlin 1894 .25-20). The cartridge itself is quite potent for such work and — combined with its accuracy potential — gives everything needed.